Magic Bullets and the Riddle of Steel

"What matters is not the steel within the blade, but the steel within the man" -- from Conan the Barbarian

Ok. I'm just going to say it. With few exceptions and the unpredictable effect of plain blind luck, the type of bullet and the type gun really does not matter when it comes down to 99% of defensive shootouts. Once again, the ammo and weapon don't matter. They are merely the tool. What matters is the skill, condition, and will of the shooter (the tool user). Just as a talented artist, carpenter, musician, or chef even with inferior tools and materials, may yet create something superior to an untrained amateur, wannabe or hack, I'd bet a trained Navy SEAL even armed with an antique .31 calibre percussion cap black powder revolver would probably defeat a 14-year old Rwandan youth conscript with an AK-47 in a head to head shootout. I emphasized the will of the shooter also because no matter how well trained, well practiced, and well equipped a person is, there is always the final human element, that is, the willingness to take another human life. There are some who cannot, and there are still many others who will hesitate and freeze at the moment of decision. It's been said, "It's not the gun that kills, it's the cold, cold heart."


Through the years I've observed many different calibers of ammunition take their turn becoming the hottest, best thing to come around (like fads) and I've somewhat followed the reasoning and the science of these various calibres as they've come into popularity and evolved, mainly since the infamous 1986 Miami-FBI Shootout. I have tried many of the different calibres (.45 ACP, 9mm, 10mm, .41 Action Express, .40 S & W).


I don't necessarily want to discuss the pros, the cons and the history of specific ammunitions here. If you find that a certain weapon and ammo works for you, then great. Good luck. I went through a long 2 decade evolutionary journey myself and in the end, I came back full circle to 3 basic weapons calbres (tools) that I will recommend.

The .45 ACP handgun round, the 12-gauge shotgun shell, and 5.56mm NATO rifle round are three well-tested, dependable, versatile, and practical ammunitions that are very commonly available around the world. I mention this availability because those that choose weapons that fire uncommon, exotic or foreign rounds no matter how good or high tech they are may find difficulty with resupply.

As I mentioned earlier, a tiny .22LR pistol in the hands of someone that knows how to use it (an assassin) can be potentially as deadly as a .44 magnum in the hands of untrained novice (the dude who came out of the bathroom with the "hand cannon" in Pulp Fiction). I prefer the .45 ACP because of it's excellent first round stopping power, that is, a single hit from a .45 ACP causes enough shock and trauma to incapacitate a target. Due to it's wide diameter and relatively slow muzzle velocity, a .45 ACP tends to push a big conical wound cavity behind the point of entry, deforming fairly evenly, and rarely punching all the way through a body (making it safer for bystanders). The downside to the larger diameter round is that .45 ACP is heavy to carry, the pistols tend to be bulky, and it does take some practice to master.

I would usually carry only one spare mag (mostly due to the weight of .45 ACP) for defensive carry, in my offhand coat pocket. I figure if I can't extricate myself from a situation in 21 rounds (10 + 10 + 1) then I'm probably hosed anyway. When I know I'm heading for trouble (in the immortal words of Captain Malcom Reynolds when "I aim to misbehave"), that is, mission carry, I'll increase that to three spare mags (the one in the pocket, plus two in a mag holder on my belt).

When I purchase a new handgun, I always buy 6 new factory magazines with it (so a total of 7), planning on 4 mags for rotating use, and 3 for training use and abuse, marked with blue tape. "Real world" training means dropping mags on the fly (something to correct if you are still neatly collecting your brass, or catching your empty mag in your free hand to protect it like at the range). I load up my magazines differently according to my intended mission. Like, for hiking out in the boonies, my first round is always "snakeshot", just in case, or at home, it's Glasers so as not to penetrate walls. For general tactical use, I like the extra stopping power of any of the hollowpoints, especially Black Talon, Federal HydraShoks, and Winchester Silvertips. And, my third round in the magazine (therefore 3rd from the bottom)... is always a tracer, an Army technique... when I see or "feel" and hear (because it's a heavier load) the tracer go, then I know I have one more shot (one in the pipe, one in the mag) before a quick tactical reload with a round still in the chamber (and no magazine disconnect safety!). With a round in the chamber, I can still defend myself during the reload just in case, rather than being empty and helpless with the slide (obviously) locked back.


Now, as ubiquitous as they are on TV and movies, and as sexy and powerful as they seem to hold and fire, pistols are considered "sidearms" or back-up weapons by serious shooters, and they actually take some training, practice and skill to operate effectively. If you are one of those people that are now dismissively thinking, what can be so complicated? just point and shoot, right? then, you are exactly the type of person that will likely get shot in a gun battle. Unless you have the time to add a monthly "range practice" to your life, I don't recommend a handgun.


If you can only get 1 firearm, or if you don't have the time to regularly go to the range and practice, the firearm that I most recommend for defense is the 12-gauge shotgun. It really is the weapon of choice for easily making a hit at close (defensive) range regardless of skill level. Defensive range is statistically most likely to be 0 to 7 feet (under 2 metres). Except for some military situation, I can't think of many real defensive scenarios that would be require longer ranges. The shotgun is the weapon that almost anyone can point and shoot and be effective. A "double-aught" 00 shotgun round contains the eqivalent of 9 pistol bullets. So just imagine, with each pull of a shotgun trigger, 9 shots are sent down range in a deadly, gradually expanding conical pattern. The downside to the shotgun is that it does not have much of a maximum effect range, it's not specifically accurate, and both the weapon and the ammo are relatvely heavy. I recommend attaching "side saddles" and shell loops to the shotgun itself for immediate reloads, and then carry a few shotshell pouches with individual elastic loops for carrying almost a full shot shell box more.

Another great thing about 12-gauge shotgun ammo is the wide variety of regular and "exotic" rounds that are made for it. Beside being able to select shot sizes from the miniscule #12 (birdshot) to the "triple-aught" 000 and rifled saboted slugs, 12-gauge shotgun shooters can readily and legally get tracers, smoke, rubber shot, flechette, buck and ball, aerial flares, loud bird bombs, bean bags, and even non-lethal CS and lead powder (for blasting out door hinges).


I only mention the rifle round because in a disaster, survival or worst case scenario, there may be a variety of weapons readily available, the so-called "battlefield pick-ups". Again, I don't recommend untrained people trying to operate select fire military type rifles, but in the interests of information, I just stated that probably the best, most practical, and the most likely weapon calibre that you'd find are the 5.56mm NATO round, FMJ and the 7.62mm X 39 rifle round for the Kalashnikov. In the US, you might more often encounter the 5.56mm NATO. It is a rifle round well designed for accuracy, and 1st hit trauma. It's a "light" round for a rifle, so it has minimal recoil and lots of ammo can be carried. It's a high velocity round, so it has decent range and penetration (through walls and foliage). And when it enters tissue, it immediately starts to tumble end over end, causing a very deep, irregular wound channel that is both hard to track and hard to repair.

I personally prefer the new SS-109 "black tips" manufactured in Canada for good optimum performance. I stock that, in it's hermetically sealed MRE-thick bags, bandoliers and plastic stripper clips, as my "doomsday" (if TSHTF) ammunition stock.

A Portable Mini-Library

Usually a BOB might be too small to carry too many books. Books are both bulky and heavy, and unless it is some really useful reference, I would I carefully consider if the weight and space might be better used. Of course a book (normally a source of information) can always be a ready source of kindling, a journal or log for recording your adventure so that others may know what happened to you, a source of wood pulp for sustenance, and (gasp!) even an "emergency" source of.... TP.

Through the years however, I have accumulated a set of very small books, even smaller than a paperback, of useful, interesting, or classic tomes. I call it my survival library and I liken it to those small impractical luxury items that old 19th century explorers used to take with them on safari. Actually, most of them are really nice books, leatherbound, gold edges, with a ribbon bookmark. Still others are just plain useful, jam packed with charts, tables, diagrams, and statistics about the physical world. To me these books are entertaining to just study, maybe a good memory jogger for survivial projects I haven't thought of yet, and perhaps good resources for a practical/educational trivia game to pass the time.

The classic US Army Manual on Survival, Escape and Evasion, FM 25-76, is a valuable, practical, all around survival manual and a very good read. It distills the combined knowledge from decades of combined field experience into a very practical how-to manual for multi-wilderness survival.

Quite by accident, the primary copy of the Bible that I purchased for myself for my reference library happened to be this very small, pocket sized, red letter King James Version. I've been very satisfied with it.

I also fortuitously came across this beautiful leather bound World Atlas on sale at my local mall. I am a map collector, and I do possess many other maps and atlases, but this one had an elegant old-style appearance and a nice compact pocket size. The maps are a bit small and the scale too large for much fine detail, but it's a good basic collection of maps of the whole world.

How to Stay Alive in the Woods by Angier along with my ol' Boy Scout manual is the book that probably started it all for me. I picked up a small paperback copy at this out of the way mountaineering store in an industrial park in the mid-70s. It has an interesting tone, almost conversational, but it is chock full of useful, accurate information on survival techniques and strategies. It contains a lot of useful apocryphal information that the Army Manual does not include. Lately, a "new" rubber-bound edition of this book was published. I still keep this book at my bedside and read it just for pleasure.

I also have lots of those plastic coated reference cards for birds, wildflowers, clouds, stars, rocks/minerals, and animal tracks. These fit nicely in my field vest pocket and allows me to quickly look up the most common Western wildlife. I have larger "Field Guides" and specific reference manuals for each subject.

The Pocket Ref, 3rd edition is an amazing compilation of facts, tables, charts, conversions, and factoids from all the science, engineering, physics, mathematics and construction trade disciplines. Some describe it as a mini-encyclopedia or almanac. For me, it's like a little pocket cheat sheet so you don't have to memorize endless tables and formulas. The thing is, it's actually very practical and useful in the field. I highly recommend it. Seriously, check it out. http://www.amazon.com/Pocket-Ref-Thomas-J-Glover/dp/1885071337/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1231948154&sr=1-1

Since it's inception in 1996, the Pocket Ref is now in it's 3rd printing, with even more information and updates that incorporate some of the latest discoveries. As far as I am aware, the 2002 3rd Edition is the latest version out right now. By comparison, the 2nd Edition had 542 pages. The 3rd Edition has 768 pages. I'm actually always on the lookout for good, compact books to add to my mini-book "library". Like I wished there was a Complete Works of William Shakespeare in compact form, or perhaps, my favourites Hamlet or A Midsummer Night's Dream.

Batteries, Re-chargeables, and Solar Power

Perhaps I am just revealing my old-fashioned, perhaps outmoded, way of thinking, but I strongly believe in, as much as it is possible, keeping as many of my electronic devices running on regular common-sized alkaline batteries, i.e. D, C, AA, AAA. Though I acknowledge that CR123s, N cells, and other currently popular batteries are powerful for their compact size, they are also mighty expensive, drain from peak levels rapidly, and are generally hard to find except in the industrial nations of the world. I harp on this issue because, through experience, I have learned many hard lessons about doing it the wrong way. I plan to explain more fully why these modern high performance devices that use the "exotic" battery types may not be the best for survival and disaster purposes.


Let me preface by stating, I try not to depend on electronics at all. I try to use human-powered hand tools, dynamo generators, solar panels, and non-electric manual old tech as much as I can. But nevertheless there are certain electronic devices that are just too advantageous or irreplaceably practical in everyday life to not use. Things such as cell phone, digital camera, GPS, music player, SAT phone, LED flashlights, headlamps, lanterns, 2-way radios, AM/FM/Weatherband radio, etc, and for them you inevitably need a good power supply. Furthermore, although I acknowledge how "un-green" this opinion is, I don't like rechargeable batteries either, or more specifically, I don't like to rely on rechargeable batteries.

Rechargeables are a wonderful idea and would be great if they worked to peak efficiency (I won't say 100%) even most of the time. But they don't. Performance degrades from day 1 and subtlely worsens with each repeated recharging. Rechargeables have to be carefully "managed" and fully discharged occasionally, otherwise, things like "memory effect" and other performance issues arise. The reliability issue comes into play when you actually start to use the device... now is that GPS going to work 20 hours? or 15 hours? or just 8 hours? I require the reassurance of knowing that when I put two fresh AAs into my GPS that it will work for a full 30 hours (my GPS Map 60CX sips power). I don't have time to mess around with guessing games when I am relying on this critical electronic device to work. Same with my flashlights, same with my SAT phone.

The worst of the rechargeable batteries IMO are the internal (non-removeable) power packs, or the specially sized, specially shaped proprietary batteries made specifically for that unit and that unit only. It may seem like a smart and convenient feature when you first get it, but wait a few months... the internal battery will start to lose the ability to hold a full charge, after awhile it will seem to discharge very rapidly, and it may start builiding up excessive heat while re-charging. And what is your only recourse? Send the entire unit in for and expensive repair (often costing more than the cost of buying the latest model). Good luck recharging when the power is out. Or you may dutifully lug the recharger around with you when you travel or buy the car adapter, but what happens when the internal battery finally quits on you. Well, good luck trying to locate that EL--960-Zed Power Pack in some remote village in Thailand or on some Greek Isle. The same goes for the exotic N-cells, CR123s and AAAAs... try finding them in a street bazaar in Morocco or even in a regular 7-11 convenience store.

With a few notable (and annoying) exceptions, all of my electronics gear runs on AA batteries, can be powered by a AA battery adapter to a mini-USB plug, from a hand-crank dynamo to a mni-USB plug, run from a USB device with a battery/wall plug to a mini-USB or from a set of solar panels that charge up AA batteries. In other words, all of my electronics are power compatible and I have many options on how I can keep them powered up (out in the boonies, while traveling, in emergencies, etc.). I make it a point to ask about the power supply when I buy any new electronics, always trying to find AA or mini-USB compatible devices.

So that is my main recommendation. Whenever you buy electronics... specifically ask what sized battery it takes. If you haven't already, start a programme of buying electronic devices that are all compatible, therefore diminishing the necessity to buy too many different sizes of batteries. Avoid "exotic" battery sizes. Avoid proprietary internal battery packs.
In a small Pelican case, which fits in my BOB, I carry a "brick" of 16 fresh AA Alkaline batteries in a battery case when I travel. This Pelican case also has my AA battery adapter/charger and my little dynamo-crank device. I also carry 4 extra AAs in my camera pouch, also in a battery case. And, in my BOB, I keep a combination memory card case/battery case with 4 more AAs. But, by choosing this common AA size, I can find some brand of AA battery even in tiny podunk General Stores and in 3rd world countries. If I buy from a good supplier (like Costco), I can pay as little as .30 cents per battery and know within reason, about what I can expect from this 100% factory fresh cell. What's a CR123 cost? $3-5 per cell for about how hours of peak operation?? I've had CR123 devices and AAAAs and other currently popular sizes and I've done the math and hassled with their relative scarcity.

On a related topic, I must say that though I fully embrace the concept and sincerely wished that it actually worked flawlessly, I have had a tumultuous history with solar chargers (photovoltaic solar energy collection panels and battery re-chargers). This is one of the technologies of the future that I really wish worked just as advertised. I yearn for them to work so that we can ALL just switchover. I have been trying to use them for about 20 years now, and I have done some serious research and field testing on several different brands and models.

I have found only one commercially available solar panel that works nominally, I have two that work let's just say "inefficiently", and I have tried two others which are just rubbish (totally impractical under real world conditions and a waste of money). Now I don't plan to trash any name brand or other here, but I will try to distill the benefit of my experience down to a few simple to follow concepts which should logically help you to make your own decision.

First, solar panels are supposed to collect the free, limitless energy radiating from the sun. This requires access/exposure to the sun. Duh. If you can't face the panels directly toward the sun, if the panels are moving (like in/on a vehicle or backpack), or if there is any obstructions (shade, trees, or clouds), it won't collect at peak efficiency.

Secondly (and read this carefully), the efficiency of the solar collection is directly proportional to the collecting surface area. In other words... the bigger the panel, the more sunlight you can collect, and the smaller the solar panel, the less solar energy you can collect. So with my approximately 1 square meter solar panel, I can run my portable radio (receiver) and an LED lantern.

Anything electronic can be run for a reasonable amount of time (an evening in camp) that does not require mechanical energy (like a motor, computer drive or a fan will consume all power in just minutes) or any appliances that produces heat (like a hot plate, hair drier, heater, or curling iron) because heat is actually produced by an electrical short. Hooking a solar panel up to rechargeable batteries is an indirect way to utilize the energy from the sun, and that same 1 square metre panel can recharge a pair of batteries (any size) in about 1 hour. So it logically follows that my smaller solar panels take much more time to collect enough sunlight to re-charge the same pair of batteries.


Logically ask yourself, is there really enough surface area to make a sufficient charge in a reasonable amount of time. Think about some of those "mini" solar panels that are on sale (for $100+), how much time do you think they take to charge up a pair of batteries? 4 to 8 hours? What if you don't have time to be stationary or to direct the panel toward the sun for that long? (just do the math, 8 hours of charging... essentially all day to get just one pair of re-chargeable batteries refreshed?)


Additionally, many solar panel systems don't meet another one of my performance criteria, waterproofness. Most units are not even water resistant, or in anyway designed to be used in precipitation. I spend time on or in the water, and most certainly in inclement weather, so many solar panels do not pass my rudimentary "ruggedness" test.

Snacks and Just Add Water Foods

I should mention that the best snacks in the world are made by nature.... fresh fruit. Glucose is the simple sugar that the body uses for fuel, and fruit contains the wide range of vitamins and minerals that keep the body running efficiently. If fresh fruit cannot be obtained then, dried fruit and/or fruit juice is the next best alternative. But today we are discussing longer lasting, portable compact foods.


Besides stocking survival provisions (long-lasting, dried and canned foods) in my home base/shelter, survival rations and MREs in my BOB and in my car, I also keep "snacks" in my personal Go Bag (the one that is closest to my side at most times). My "snacks" are actually nutritious foods and beverages that represent perhaps 3-days worth of rations. My menu varies, but usually, it will contain: energy bars, trail mix containing something salty (nuts or crackers), something sweet (chocolate), something tart (dried fruit), individual packet foods that re-constitute in hot water, and individual packet powdered beverages.


As I've mentioned, my actual "emergency" food (my shelter supply) is Mainstays, MREs, Mountain Houses, and long-shelf life, shelter-grade powdered/dehydrated foods, plus cases and cases of water. Mainstays are the best compact longterm rations. Good ol' MREs and the newer smaller Patrol version of MREs are great tasting, long lasting and nutritious portable meals. Mountain House meals are my favourite of the backpacking freeze-dried meals. By boiling water, they make highly nutritious, delicious meals like "Chicken and Rice". "Mexican Chicken and Rice", "Teriyaki Chicken and Rice" and "Pasta Primavera". With a Jet Boil, you can be eating a nice hot meal within 5 minutes of taking off your pack. In choosing survival shelter foods, I recommend stocking foods that have a high food value (particularly protein) in the smallest amount of space, like rice, beans, peanut butter, tofu, powdered milk, sports drinks like Gatorade, and powdered eggs.


Honourable mention must be made to the freeze-dried Strawberries that used to come with the old MRE packages. Just add a bit of water, and they turned into the most delicious, sweet strawberry compote. I'd make full on desserts out of those Strawberry packets... adding Cocoa Beverage Powder... non-Dairy Creamer.... crushed Crackers to give it body, heat the mixture up over a hexane bar... and voila! Chocolate-Strawberry Cake (in the middle of a rainy jungle in Central America... LOL). The "new" and improved MREs don't have the Strawberries anymore.
Nowadays, energy bars and meal replacement bars make it really easy to carry yummy high energy snacks in a very compact package. I am not particular about which brand (Powerbar, Pure Protein, Tiger's Milk, Atkins, Clif, Odwalla, Soy Joy, Max, etc, etc). I buy whatever is on sale (under a buck), and I buy whichever flavour appeals to me out of those on sale (chocolate, peanut butter, and fruit are my preference). I have a "bin" from which I randomly draw and replace the two meal bars that I carry with me (when hiking or traveling). I also store 10 bars in a watertight/airtight crushproof case in my BOB.

I'm also a big fan of trail mix. I like the Archer Farms "Swiss" mix, available at Target, but usually, for snacking while hiking I just fill Zip-locs full of my own three-part mix. Salted, roasted peanuts and cashews are my favourite base. Very rarely, shelled sunflower seeds. I try to avoid sticky or flavoured coatings i.e. honey roasted, barbecue. Though yummy initially, they make the rest of trail mix taste like that flavour, plus it makes the mix damp and sticky. For the chocolate (sweet) element, I prefer M & Ms simply because they are hard-candy shell coated, again reducing the melty, stickiness and mess. They have several great varieties now that add flavour and texture, like Krispie, dark chocolate, peanut butter, and now.... coffee mocha! BTW, peanut M & Ms are not usually my first choice 1) because it is redundant but 2) because the larger diameter seems to make them more susceptible to breaking the candy shell. Finally, the third element of a good trail mix is a fruity or tangy element. Lots of choices here, but dried cherries, dried cranberries, dried blueberries, dried diced pineapple, and dried diced mango are all good and readily available in my area. I do like apricots, but they tend to be too big (in trail mix). And though, it's not "tangy", I like to throw in some banana chips because they are high in Potassium (which helps in electrolyte balance and reduces muscle cramping after exertion). And that's it for my three-part on-the-road trail mix. Of course, I usually end up adding lots of other things into it (a handful of Gummi bears, wasabi peas, yogurt raisins, granola clusters, those little spicy rice crackers), whatever I feel like. Variety is good and grazing (slow constant snack intake) is good.


A few sealed packets of Lipton creamy chicken soup or instant miso soup available at Japanese food markets can be a nice hot "dinner" in a pinch, like if you unexpectedly find yourself spending the night out in the woods, and I can tell you, a cheery fire and a cup of hot soup or tea on a chilly night does much to restore ones spirits. Miso soup is very high in protein and energy and is very easily digestible for the ill. I also carry individual "stick" packages of flavoured-sweetened Lipton-to-Go ice tea (for caffeine, and to mask other flavours in water), hot cocoa "stick" packages (I found these in Japan, made by Nescafe Corp).

I'm generally not particular about my mints or gums. I'll buy/chew/eat whatever is available, mainly to keep my mouth salivating. However, those Penguin mints are great and I actually "use" them to keep alert, especially when long distance driving. They're kind of like tiny Tic-Tac shaped Altoids with a strong peppermint taste and a noticeable "jolt" of caffeine. A decade ago, Psychology Today published an article about natural smells/tastes that make you more alert, and Peppermint was one of them. These have the peppermint plus the time proven effect of caffeine. Plus, the metal tins are useful afterwards for dozens of uses.

Playing For Your Life

The reality of surviving a disaster sometimes means very long, very boring hours (if not days) (if not WEEKS) of patiently waiting out the danger. It might be a hurricane or flood waters, it might be an ice storm, snow and power outage, it might be rioting, civil unrest and marauding bands of scavengers, it might be waiting for radiation levels to subside, it might be days and nights trapped in the wreckage of a car or aircraft until a rescue team arrives. For these and a thousand other more horrible scenarios that I can imagine, there is a small but nevertheless important consideration called morale. Keeping up a positive mental attitude especially when you are alone or isolated, cold, hungry, injured, or still far away from help can be critical. Even the simplest creature comforts become magnified in such situations... a working radio, a campfire/fireplace, a light, an extra blanket, a piece of chocolate, and.... fighting boredom with diversion and entertainment.

I don't know why the human mind works like this, perhaps it's because we evolved as social animals, but in general we all eventually need some type of stimulation, otherwise, we get bored. If we are alone, we get lonely or "stir crazy". If we are in groups, we get "cabin fever". There are usually plenty of tasks to do around a "survival" shelter, shelter improvement, fuel gathering, hunting/foraging, cooking, filtering water, generating electricity, inventory, tool making, tool maintenance, radio monitoring and transmitting, latrine/sanitation, personal hygiene, and security among them. Even assigning seemingly menial cleaning tasks, like keeping things somewhat orderly and tidy will not only benefit morale overall, but may have other subtle hidden benefits, like suppressing the spread of germs/disease, avoiding unnecessary irritation of your shelter-mates by being a good neighbour, preventing unnecessary injury from stumbling over things in the dark, or maybe something like quickly being able to find and access a flare gun as soon as a plane is sighted. A logical, equitable division of labour and a reasonable schedule and routine will do much to keep people occupied and content. But eventually, there is going to be some down time, extra time, a time when friendly conversation starts to run down and you are left with a bunch of people in close quarters trying to coexist.

So as "dramatic" as it sounds, that is why I consider having something entertaining, like a deck of cards or a harmonica, something simple and small, in one's BOB an important piece of survival equipment. It's really a matter of preference but consider things like books, storytelling, jokes, magic, poetry, trivia, puzzles, Mad-Libs, 1-minute Mysteries, colouring books/crayons, music, games (like marbles, jacks, chess, Risk, Clue, Monopoly, checkers, go, Othello, dominoes, backgammon, Mancala), toys (like re-usable construction toys, Nerf), and physical activities that practice skills (like self-derense, darts, sling, rock and knife throwing). And don't forget "Calvin Ball" which is great fun.

In my BOB, my travel carry-on luggage, and in my disaster supply tubs, I have several games. Most simply, I have a durable deck of plastic (waterproof) playing cards. I also bought through the years about 10 different sets of various card sets that have pictures or info on them on survival, geography, great works of art, trivia, brain games, etc. My favourite travel recreation is a mini-chess computer (with tiny secure pieces that can be packed up when on the move). One can play against the computer or against an opponent. I have convenient travel versions of Scrabble, Backgammon, and Go.I also have an old GameBoy with a large assortment of games, but I tend to favour the puzzle games for repeat playability and amusement. I also like "quest" type games that can be played for hours... i.e. Final Fantasy, Zelda, Gauntlet. My caveat about electronic games is that they do expend precious batteries, they can usually only be played individually and the noise tends to annoy others after a while. And annoying the wrong person when you've spent 6 days stuck in a stuffy single room, hearing each other's same voices, breathing each other's smells, learning very real intimate idisyncrasies of each shelter mate, being hungry, cold, possibly sleep deprived, worried or scared, can lead to homicidal results (it's happened countless times throughout history).

Just having some paper and something to write or draw with can provide the means to improvise many entertainments if that is all you have i.e. a deck of cards, a chess set, checkers, can all be crudely fabricated. Once when I was couped up in a cabin while it rained at summer camp, our cabin guide improvised this cool game of Risk that he just made out of a map of California, a marker pen, some index cards, dice, and various coloured/shaped M&Ms and Rice Chex. It was cool and fun because it was made from scratch, and I learned much about California geography too. I still remember that game over 30 years later... LOL.

"I'd tune in to some friendly voices...."

"...talkin' 'bout stupid things. Let me be weak, let me sleep, and dream of sheep."

Today, I thought I'd take up the topic of Emergency radio receivers (not to be confused with the transmitting "walkie-talkie" type radios, which I will discuss later). An emergency radio is basically a portable AM/FM/SW and NOAA Weatherband receiver that is a) battery operated b) solar re-chargeable or c) has a "dynamo" hand crank to power it temporarily. Additionally, many of the latest emergency radios might include, a light (LED or other) for back-up illumination using the same power sources, a jack and cord for re-charging or temporarily powering your mobile phone, and in some cases, it can be used to re-charge spent re-chargeable batteries. It is functionally really no different from any other good radio receiver unit except that it may have multiple Shortwave bands (SW1, SW2, SW3) and sometimes even a low VHF "TV" band (audio only). It is one of the items recommended by the American Red Cross to include with one's disaster kit or BOB, ostensibly useful for tuning into news and EBS notifications during an emergency for useful information (i.e. imminent dangers, evacuation routes, location of relief centers, recommended precautions, etc.). During an emergency, just being able to hear a source of official information can be a good comfort from the sense of isolation and unknown.


I have several similar so-called "emergency" radios stored with my supplies and in my mobile BOB for disaster preparedness (as I live in a major quake zone). Quality, design and features vary tremendously with price. I have a cheap Chinese-made "no name" knockoff version, I have a very reasonably priced, mid-priced Eton brand model, and I have one high end Grundig battery operated base station radio. Other, trusted brand name manufacturers include Kaita, Uniden and Panasonic. It is indeed a great value-added luxury to have a sensitive reduction gear tuner, digital frequency readout, and some type of signal strength indicator, but functionally (which is the most important characteristic), after testing them extensively, all three radios that I have perform about the same in pulling in stations. I like my "cheapie" one because it also charges AA batteries. My mid-priced Eton is a convenient charger for my model of cell phone (and indeed any mini-USB device, like my MP3 player). My base station radio is nice in that it can actually transmit in SW, but it is probably too heavy to realistically lug around in an emergency. I'd say the max practical weight for portability is about 3/4 lbs.

Of the excellent line of Eton brand products which include the optional solar power charging and the hand-crank dynamo charging, the FRS 150 is more compact but equally effective unit than it's bigger, bulkier siblings. I consider the smaller size/weight and hence easy portability (in my "go bag") a desireable advantage. FRS 150 retains all of the previous power supply options from previously released, larger models and adds one additional (the USB plug!), and, it even trims the price a little bit in the transaction. A win-win-win situation in my book. I can aver that the performance rates from excellent to nominal.... radio reception is good on all bands (AM, FM, and all 7 WBs), the light output for the LED flashlight is decent and practical, and the now critical emergency cell phone charger is handy and easy to use since the dynamo handcrank is now on the back of the unit and you can just hold the whole unit up and watch the "recharging" indicator on your phone.

Note: I have read some product reviews that complained that the FRS 150 did not pull in radio stations under actual "emergency" use (like Hurricane Ike), that they were only able to barely hear 2 staticky stations. I cannot speak to someone's individual experience with it, but... my brother responded with the ARC to Ike, and many radio/TV stations stopped transmitting during the storm itself. Also, if you were in a shelter, remember that the AM and SW bands use an internal ferrite antenna that may not perform optimally in a structure or underground.

The FRS 150 is still not "rugged" or waterproof, but it is made of high quality materials and available in several coloured translucent plastic casings. I am tempted to even recommend this as a good "everyday" radio for those radio listeners out there like me that like NPR, news or talk radio, because it has a good, clear monaural speaker. I make this recommendation, however, for another ulterior reason.... one of the "cons" of this FR 150 radio unit, at least in my book. AC power is no longer an option, but that is more than made up for by the versatile USB connection (you can draw power from any USB devices/hubs, USB wall adapters, and USB car power adapters). The biggest flaw with the FR 150 is that it does NOT have the option for battery powered operation. I mean, you cannot run it off of common, readily available, standard, Alkaline batteries, like AAs. It has a proprietary, internal NiMH rechargeable battery. This brings with it a slew of temperamental problems that users should be aware of, like battery management and memory effect, degrading efficiency over time/unreliability in a product that NEEDS to be reliable, hazardous material disposal, and inability (extreme difficulty) in finding a replacement (while traveling, in the wilderness, or in the middle of a disaster). I could write a whole article on the problems I mentioned above (and maybe I will later), but suffice it to say that, for me, just popping in a fresh 100% charged pair of regular AA batteries that I can find in any "tienda" around the world is much more reassurring to me. This internal battery also means that the FR 150 is NOT ideal for longterm storage without any use (which ironically is a prime characteristic of "emergency" radios - storing them until you need them). It is necessary to leave it out in the light (to trickle charge it) or occasionally top off the power, otherwise you may find it fully discharged when you pull it out during the pitch black of an emergency.

Despite this annoying idiosyncrasy, I still think the FR 150 performs well enough and is a great of a value enough to give it a 4.5 out of 5 star rating. It's a good investment for $25.

Keep on Trekkin'

On this subject, I was guilty of ignorance for a long time I'll confess. I joined my comrades in snidely commenting on and snickering at those dorks that I'd see on the trail who were using trekking poles. They looked like wannabe cross-country skier's who'd lost their skis. Maybe they fancied themselves to be hardcore Seven Summits climbers like they'd seen on PBS or something. I myself, on every hike almost as a ritual, would find or fabricate a nice walking stick for myself out of a fallen tree branch and then at the end of the hike return it to the forest. It really was difficult for me to imagine what real benefit a pair of poles would have over a single walking stick or staff. And so, I skoffed and laughed along with everyone and, kharmically, I ended up missing out for a good decade on the tremendous benefits and qualitative improvements that I could have had by using trekking poles.


My favourite outdoors store, REI, put a set of decent Leki trekking poles on sale long ago for like $20 so what the heck (a good deal is a good deal) I decided I'd get them and who knows, maybe sell them later. I threw the trekking poles in the closet (such an apt metaphor) and actually did not use them for about a year. Then a friend and hiking partner of mine one fine morning mentioned that he's going to try out these new trekking pole things that he just bought. Well, what the heck, I decided to break out my "new" poles and try them out too.



At first we did feel rather foolish and self-conscious and we really could not detect much difference in the hiking experience except for surer footing and a slight fatigue in the arms and upper body (from using unfamiliar muscles). But it was a couple of miles into the hike and when we hit our first major ascent (like a 1000 foot elevation gain in less than 1/2 mile) that we suddenly "felt" the difference. Once you get into a steady rhythmn and learn to use the poles efficiently, they steady and enhance your stride on level ground and to even cushion (by re-distribution) the weight of your body and pack. Then OMG! on the ascents, I suddenly powered up the steep mountainside with confidence and energy to spare because instead of just my legs working like climbing a stairway without a railing, I now had the benefit of both my arms pulling me upward also, exactly like holding onto a nice solid railing perfectly positioned on either side of me. The difference was remarkable. Tough, moderately steep ascents (like a pitch under Class 3) became, I wouldn't say "easy", but easier and less strenuous. And on the downhills, I didn't realize how much I was pounding the ground and stressing my back and knees until I tried the trekking poles and suddenly the burden was lifted.


Essentially, these strong, but lightweight poles shifted perhaps as much as 25% of the workload previously carried by my legs alone, to my arms and upper body. So now, not only do I feel like I get more of an even full body (upper and lower) workout when I hike, but I'm able to hike longer, ascend stronger, descend safer, and in general have more secure footing all around because it is like a handy portable "hand rail" on the path that is always there to support and steady me. They have already saved me from countless falls, slips, and badly twisted ankles.


Additionally, having a pair of handy constant "probes" in one's hands, it is easy to test the ground in front of you. Is it muddy? Will the detritus slip out under my feet? Is that a secure rock or a loose one? Was that a snake? They're also useful as an extension of your hand to push foliage out of the way, cobwebs, or manipulate things in the search for geo-caches. Through the years, I've optimized my technique for using trekking poles effectively, conserving a lot of energy and avoiding wasted motion. Basically, I let the lightweight poles swing forward mostly with gravity, pivoting them at my wrist and the top two fingers and thumb of my hands, then plant slightly ahead, and then rest my weight on the poles (like using a railing) as I simultaneously step and push myself forward. Then repeat for the other side. For ascents, I change my grip slightly to a full hand, four finger grip, and I shift the poles slightly back. The pole plants occur nearly alongside my body (abeam in nautical terms) and push back and down on the pole, "pulling" myself up with my pole even as I stride forward and upward. The I repeat. That's not all, it is still possibe, to use ascent techniques like rest step in conjunction with the trekking poles. For descents, I change my grip again to the top of the poles. I happen to have a pole with T handles which are most convenient I find for ergonomically descending. With my hands on top, I plant my poles ahead of my feet and basically put my weight "on" the poles, like a cane or a crutch, thus lessening the weight and impact that my knees and back feel.



The difference between hiking with trekking poles and without is dramatic, like night and day. I daresay that with the aid of my trekking poles, I shall be able to continue hiking well into my old age. The composition of trekking poles has gotten increasingly high tech also. Aluminum is now almost "old school", but they are indeed pretty lightweight and sufficient. Titanium alloy and graphite are more state of the art nowadays. Hard tungsten-carbide tips are pretty standard now. Grip material and grip design vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. I prefer the "T" or "L" handle design because I find the change in grip ergonomic when descending. Cork is supposed to be both lightweight and moisture absorbant. I prefer moulded-nubby parkerized rubber. Colour varies. I don't really care, but I'd always prefer some shade of green, for camo and blending in.


Being the gadgety type person that I am, I have added a few adjuncts, accessories and am considering future modifications to my trekking poles. First of all, I added a cushioned neoprene grip sleeve at a critical intersection that used to cause me blisters. I have a handy LED light integral to one pole so that I can continue hiking after dark. I also have a quick-release snap off/on mounting device attached to one pole, in case I want to use my pole as a camera monopod, or if I want to read my GPS as I zero in on a cache, I can quickly attack that. This same mount can also fit my cell phone also, for calls on the move. Using the camera attached to the mount on the trekking pole can produce some pretty amazing angle shots (like imagine a shot from somewhere over a cliff, shooting back to like a vista point. I had a pet electronics project in mind to wire up a battery to one of my poles so that the opposite "business" end can be a contact stunner (cattle prod) for defensive purposes.


Again, in a survival situation, don't forget the many potential uses for trekking poles. As supports, as extensions of the arms (or legs), as weapons, as probes, as cooking utensils, etc, etc.

From experience I'd like to mention some desirable, value-adding attributes of good trekking poles.
-adjustable length/collapsible - not only for ideal personal length, but also so that it can be longer for descents or using them as a single staff, and shorter for easier storage and for steep ascents.
-snap-lock system - rather than the twist on tension lock, for several good reasons. Not only is the twist on type lock harder to use, especially when hands are cold, wet, numb or in gloves, but I have found that they spontaneously loosen with the constant impact of hiking use, and I'd occasionally find them collapsing when I'm not expecting it. Some non-hiking poles have the nesting sleeve-shock cord system of collapsing.
-the handle grip area should be extra long... 6" minimum down the shaft as much as 12" - this allows quick "choking up" when ascending and extra grip area when using it as a single long walking staff.
-the handle grip area should be ergonomically shaped and most importantly they must not have irritating bumps, ridges or seams right at the "v" intersection of the thumb and index finger. This is a critical stress point where blisters commonly form.
-the handle (though gloves are recommended) should be made of non-slip material, especially when wet or slick with sweat. Cork, rubber, grippy plastic.
-though optional, I prefer the handle to have a top-cross bar, either an "L" or "T", which allows a change of grip to the top of the handle when descending.
-finally, made of very lightweight material, the lighter the better as long as strengtmh is retained. Aluminum, graphite, carbon fiber, magnesium, titanium. It always seems inconsequential in the comfort of a shoppe, but after 5 hours of hiking, a few ounces extra starts to feel like a tonne.

All the other options, such as baskets, tips, colour, hand straps, compasses, camera monopods, carrying cases are all secondary considerations and don't effect performance much.

Through the Looking Glass

I wanted to write about a commonly available, very small bit of kit which many people may overlook as a useful survival tool, the mirror. Yes, the plain old mirror, or more generally any shiny reflective surface, can save your life, and in fact has saved many lives. How? Basically, by reflecting sunlight.

A signal mirror or heliograph (literally sun writer in Greek) is one of the oldest and longest distance signaling devices in history. Flashlights are great for directional light, but there are very few lights on Earth brighter than the sun. The signaling mirror's military usage dates back to the ancient Greeks who used the highly polished insides of shields to signal distant formations to coordinate maneuvers. Distance-wise, the farthest documented use of a signal mirror which led to a rescue in modern times is an amazing 150 miles.

A mirror is simply a reflecting surface. A good survival mirror can be composed of many things. Silvered or aluminized glass, Lexan laminates, polished metal. Composition varies by intended purpose.

Many people EDC mirrors on their person for cosmetic purposes. Mirrors can be found on almost any vehicle. Flexible sheets of Mylar make great mirrors until they get scratched up, and in fact, I carry a business card sized piece of Mylar in a protective sleeve in my wallet (as a portable emergency mirror). Also, just thinking outside the box a bit, flat and/or spinning parabolic mirrors can be made with liquid mercury.

It logically follows that the larger the reflecting surface the more sunlight is redirected. The larger the better, is a rule of thumb. The lighter the colour the better also (like white reflects better than black). Remember almost any flat, shiny surface can be a reflector, not just actual mirrors. Windows from cars, boats, and aircraft, glass from picture frames, poster covers, clock faces, shiny cookware and polished silver platters, any flat sections of stainless steel, brass and aluminum, CD jewel cases, window panes and glass doors from houses, and glass table tops can all be good directable sun reflectors.

I have found that CDs themselves and aluminum foil do not make effective reflectors. In a pinch of course, they are better than nothing. The plastic of CDs is not smooth enough, plus the aluminized CD media section is designed to reflect light (laser light) at oblique angles. Aluminum foils no matter how much you smooth it just never gets flat enough or crease free enough to be reliable reflectors.

Many very good survival mirrors can be purchased at sporting goods, camping, outdoors and surplus stores. REI.com stocks several different sizes and models. I personally recommend getting the largest mirror that your personal BOB can efficiently hold. In most cases, that might be the 4" X 5" size. Additionally, though they are more prone to scratching, I prefer the Lexan laminate composition mirrors to the glass or metal mirrors, mainly because of weight savings and shatterproof durability. Finally, most designated signaling mirrors (heliographs) will have a center aiming hole and I find them to be a useful feature. By looking through the aiming hole, an artifical dot can be seen which indicates exactly where the sunlight is being reflected. My chosen survival mirror even makes the aiming dot a red colour for ease of sight. Finally you might want to consider certain accessories and adjuncts as value added, like a lanyard hole and lanyard (to keep it from falling/breaking), a flotation device (to keep it from sinking to the bottom of the ocean), and a protective case or sleeve (to keep it scratch free) as desireable extra features.

Even without an aiming hole, the use of a signal mirror is easy. First you are somewhat limited by the position of the sun and any intervening obstacles (trees, terrain features), but basically, choose a target, hopefully on the same side as the sun. Hold up the mirror and try to reflect a beam of sunlight down at your feet. Next, sighting the intended target (a distant plane, boat, or Ranger station) hold up two fingers in a "V" and sight the target between those fingers. With the other hang that is holding the mirror, bring the reflected sunlight beam up until it shines on the two upraised fingers. Play the sunlight beam side to side and up and down across the two fingers. To the observer, it will appear like a brilliant pinpoint flash of sunlight. Note: an intermittent flashing is much more likely to draw attention than a solid constant reflection, which might be a natural occurence. If you are close enough to know that you are precisely hitting the target, like an aircraft, you can try to send a message in CW. Combinations of three (blasts on a whistle, rifle shots)are an internationally recognized distress signal. ... --- ... (dot dot dot dash dash dash dot dot dot) is "S.O.S.". Even if you don't ever learn the rest of the Morse alphabet, this combination may be a good one to memorize and practice.

I have incidentally found mirrors useful throughout my life as a tactical periscope, that is to look over, under, around obstacles and corners. In fact, one of my best inventions is a tactical mirror for the M-4 RIS, M-203, and M-16 series. In some situations it is just smarter to look around a corner with a small mirror than it is to stick your head out. I still use an adjustable telescoping mirror for geo-caching searches (which simply saves me from sticking my hands into yucky spider web covered holes and crevices... LOL).

Additionally, mirrors, duh... have myriad uses as..... mirrors. What I mean is, among other things, they are very useful for "visualizing" yourself. Afterall, there is over half of your own body that even you yourself have never seen directly, and not all injuries and problems will conveniently occur where you can see them in a survival situation or medical emergency.

That Ain't a Knife...

........this is a knife.

Ok, so I've sort of hinted around this topic frequently, that a knife is a very useful tool. Almost all survival experts will agree that the single most useful tool (next to the brain) is the knife. There are knife fanatics out there who endlessly collect, haggle over, polish (as in physically brandish, fondle and rub sensuously... ahem), worship and cogitate over every nuance of cutlery and how to display or carry it, and what I'm going to state next is going to cause a whole vast tribe of knife enthusiasts to groan and call me a Phillistine, but.... in a survival situation, a shiv made from a sharpened piece of aircraft with a cloth wrapped handle is probably sufficient for 99% of your immediate emergency needs. Sure, if I had my druthers I'd love a 7" Damascus Bowie with stag handle, but I said it before and I'll say it again, what's the best knife for survival? The one that you have with you. I don't mean to discourage people from researching and seeking out a "good" knife, but I just remind people to consider, how likely are you to have it with you if it's a giant honkin' Rambo knife. Remember, just about any knife will last long enough to poke a hole through something, and with any luck, it will probably be able to simply cut things whether you pay $1 or $1000.

Nowadays with just minimal investment and thought a pretty decent, practical knife (suitable for EDC, utility or survival needs) can be obtained. IMO, the best knife steels (raw material) are Damascus, Sheffield, Solingen and from parts of Japan. I daresay, the knife market is flooded with knives from China, Taiwan, India and Pakistan and I won't outright say that they are inferior, however, with few exceptions they tend to be imitations or knockoffs of popular Western knife designs. In some cases, it is just Western companies who established their manufacturing plants in China, where the labour is cheaper.

I've mentioned that I like the Victorinox products and own several. I love the Leatherman products and use mine as my "primary" EDC utility tool. I occasionally carry a separate quick-deployment knife made by Cold Steel for the sole purpose of situations where quick, one-hand deployment would be useful: to cut away entanglements, rescue access, and back-up self defense. Going bigger, I have a favourite "Universal Survival Machete" about 12" long that is based on the Bolo knife, which I used in Jungle Environment Survival Training. It's a great, versatile tool that I can, given enough time, build a house with, furnish, stock with food, and cook with... LOL. Seriously.


For most people and for 90% of "survival" needs, almost any decent quality, locking blade knife with a 3" to 5" blade length is sufficient. Just off the top of my head, Boker, SOG, Smith and Wesson, CRKT, Gerber, Kershaw, Spyderco, Benchmade, Camillus, Buck, Cold Steel, Victorinox, and A.G. Russell are all trusted, respected brandname knifemakers that all make at least one basic lockback that is good for EDC or one's BOB. There are some well known "knockoff" knife makers that make a (probably) sufficient product for a bargain price, but I won't vouch for their longterm reliability, like Frost Cutlery and United Cutlery. I have an "extra" (read: back-up) Spyderco serrated, Smith and Wesson rescue, and a CRKT tanto knife permanently stored with my Rope Bag, my Medic Bag, and the Rescue Module of my Go Bag respectively.

But if the SHTF, and I had to depend on one knife to do it all. If I had to choose one knife rugged enough, versatile enough, and, yes, even deadly enough to cover all my needs, I'd go with something like the Kabar Tanto. I've messed around with a variety of knife designs through the years, some bigger, some fancier, some cheaper, some more feature-loaded, but I always seem to come back to a similar set of key features in my choice for a fixed blade knife, practically designed for survival, utility, diving, and combat (the ultimate back-up). My general "wishlist" for desireable knife features include:

1-high carbon steel for temper and hardness. This knife is 1095, which is AISI grade wt 0.95% carbon. A knife that will sharpen well (a knife's basic function).

2-durable point. Seems fundamental to all knives but the Tanto chisel point design is especially effective. It is considered "armour piercing". The ability to pierce (very effectively) as well as cut can come in very handy for survival and defense.

3-full tang. From the blade through the handle should be integral for durability and "abusive" functions (like prying and levering).

4-comfortable grip. The rubberized texture, the palm-swell, the grip/drainage grooves and the oval cross-section of the Kabar is perfect for me. It just feels good and secure in your hand (in both overhand and underhand positions, wet or dry). This is a matter of hand size and preference. Some knives just don't fit or feel right.

5-subdued colour. The epoxy coating on the blade doesn't flash reflected light. It's not for brandishing and "show", but for tactical or survival use where concealment, escape or evasion might be part of the mission.

6-corrosion resistance. The same coating also protects the knife from corrosion (i.e. seawater, salty fluids).

7-practical weight (about a pound or so). The heftiness of the blade is practical for certain functions (like piercing with mass behind it), yet is nicely balanced.

8-practical length (6" min). Good length for certain combat functions and extra length actually helps the balance. 8" blade.

9-practical thickness. Another great "Tanto" feature. Gives the knife great durability, like the potential use as an "axe" by hammering on the back of the blade with an object.

10-practical pommel. Forget the compasses, the compartments, the clip-on slingshots, the "spikes", or decorations on other knives... the Kabar has a very functional, simple and durable flat pommel (useful for hammering and striking) plus a lanyard hole.

11-serrations (a partial section of blade). Always handy for quick aggressive cutting of tough or fibrous materials. Some people prefer the plain blade. I've always thought a small section of serrations couldn't hurt, and actually helps a lot for many practical tasks.

12 -Then add on a durable, comfortable, adjustable sheath, unaffected by water. The Kydex sheath for the Kabar Tanto is nice and is perforated with ample holes, slots and belt loops so that you can configure it to multiple carry methods. It grips the knife amply, but it also has a back up rubber loop "lock" (so that it cannot fall out). My only comment: the sheath is rigid and, I think, just a bit "noisy" both in movement and in deploying the knife. It's like a hard piece of plastic. I improvised a way to "silence" it.

There are many other knives that meet these criteria and much is a matter of personal preference in selecting a knife, but I found that this Kabar Tanto satisfies my entire "wishlist" of design criteria and so far has served me well. Also, you should know that it is nothing but a "tool" to me. I don't particularly cherish and protect it (though I keep it sharp and clean). My knife is meant to be used and if necessary "used up" if the situation calls for it. Certain knives in my life have earned a name when by use the character of the blade is discovered.

Bamboo, a Kindness from the Grasses

Yes, I'm talking about the common "Asian" plant. In my too brief studies in the field of botany, and later in JEST, I learned about this remarkable (borderline "miraculous") member of the grass family. It is a very hardy, extremely fast growing evergreen, which holds many of the records in the world of flora (i.e. largest member of the true grass family, fastest growing woody plant in the world, and indeed the fastest growing plant in the world). How fast? bamboo has been observed under optimum conditions (soil, humidity, temperature) to grow as much as 1 metre per hour. A more normal, but fast rate, is about 1 metre per day. Basically, it grows to full maturity in just one growing season and an individual plant lives out it's life cycle in about 5 years. Because it recycles so fast, bamboo is correctly considered a sustainable, renewable resource. Anecdotally, fast growing bamboo has even been known to grow through living animals/humans.


Bamboo thrives in verdant, steamy jungles, but scattered groves have been seen growing in a wide range of climactic conditions well into temperate zones and even in high cold mountains. I see them existing (probably under expert care) all over North America. I believe Europe (and Antarctica) are the only continents that do not have bamboo plants.


When you start to learn a bit more about the versatility and universal utility of bamboo, you cannot help but to marvel that such a coincidentally useful plant exists. Bamboo reminds me of Al Capp's Schmoo from the "Lil Abner" comics. The fictional Schmoo was a lifeform seemingly perfectly made to serve all the needs of humans (food, clothing, shelter, fuel, and were happy to serve humans in those capacities).

In terms of survival, I would say bamboo is the single most useful naturally occurring plant in the world (with profuse apologies to Dr. Carver and his peanuts, and the enthusiastic "Hemp Movement"). If you learn how to use bamboo and imagine it's possibilities an entire culture can be based on bamboo technology (and believe me, there actually are). Bamboo can be a source of food, water, clothing, tools, shelter, weapons including rockets and firearms, armour, lumber (incredibly strong materials for construction and fabrication), flotation and transportation, music and recreation, storage, irrigation, plumbing and toilet systems, weaving, textiles, tableware, sewing needles, tattoo needles, furniture, and possibly most significant for culture.... the first durable paper so that history and knowledge could be recorded. Clothing made from bamboo fibers are naturally warm (trapping air), anti-bacterial (due to plant chemistry), hypo-allergenic, naturally UV resistant, and when woven into mats and towels are very water absorbant. Bamboo fibre shirts are just starting to become available at outdoors outfitters.


When bamboo is young, wet and green, it is easier to peel, split, shape and work with (not to mention edible). Sliced, soaked bamboo shoots are delicious and have a very palatable (not strong) taste similar to a crunchy root vegetable.


Because it's hollow, bamboo is relatively lightweight (to carry) and it floats. The wood though is extremely hard and fibrous once it dries (usually into a yellow or brown shiny surface). Because of phototropism and geotropism, the wood of bamboo also tends to grow almost perfectly straight. Skilled horticulturists have discovered ways to make bamboo grow in curves, spirals and circles, and by placing growing bamboo culms in a tight form, they have been able to make square cross-section bamboo, instead of the usual round.


Because it is configured like a hollow tube, bamboo is incredibly strong in it's lengh-wise direction and still fairly strong and still flexible in it's circumferential plane. In some Asian countries bamboo has been used to build scaffolding as high as 20 stories!! But probably the most "useful" characteristic of bamboo to mankind is that it is naturally divided into these multiple airtight, watertight cylindrical chambers. Like nature's own Lincoln Logs, Legos and Tinker Toys all rolled into one construction toy, bamboo can be broken down into durable, waterproof, insect resistant hollow pipes, poles, tubes, cups, bowls, air-filled chambers, containers, and combined infinitely for bolstered strength. When split or splintered, it makes thousands of useful weapons and tools, household goods, from flame throwers, spears, and blowdart guns to chopsticks, hair combs, and toothpicks.


Half of jungle survival school was about identifiying asset plants by sight, and bamboo was the most important of them. Once we found some bamboo, we knew that we would be ok. We built an entire (fairly comfortable) camp out of bamboo products, rice steamers, hats, floor tiles, plates, shovels, woven mattes, musical instruments, chairs, and even wheels. Remember in SE Asia, some cultures build whole houses and boats out of bamboo.

For a Good Timepiece Call on High Gear

Perhaps I'm just showing how "old" and fuddy duddy I'm getting (by using colloquialisms like fuddy duddy), but lately, that is, in mid-2009, I am starting to hear fascinating rumours that among the devices that are being made obsolete by the modern, multi-function mobile phone (and to be sure, there are many) is the good ol' wristwatch. There is even a website where people can donate their old, no longer used wristwatches to be part of a 1000 watch museum display http://www.moskowarchitects.com/TKWP/index.html. They claim that people under age 25 in increasing numbers are eschewing the wristwatch for just the clock on their mobile phone devices. I'm not sure if I believe it, yet. To me, this is tantamount to proclaiming that the pocket watch is making a coming back. Yes, I understand that the pocket watch, belt watch, pendant watch, brooch watch, clip-on watch never really completely went away (there is always some small niche market for them). I recall how ring watches briefly made a comeback and then went away again in the 90s.

There is a pragmatic part of me that fundamentally believes that (aside from a HUD) the human forearm, the wrist, the back of the hand and perhaps even the back of the fingers or maybe, just maybe the top of the breast, are the only practical places where an ergonomic, "hands free" display can be placed, and hence for a certain segment of the population that need to or want to measure the passage of time quickly and conveniently, there will always be a need for a logical, hands-free way to just glance down and know what time it is (using just one arm or no hands). In the battle between style (whipping out your Blackberry everytime you need to know what time it is) vs. ergonomics, ergonomics usually wins.

In fact, I'm no futurist, but if you ask me, I'd say that in the future, the very opposite trend may be true. That there will be increased numbers of practical everyday devices that will someday be attached to a convenient, ergonomic wrist controller device, like maybe all of those current iPhone functions and apps (games, internet, information, music), audio and video communications, camera of course, GPS, a true "universal" remote for controlling your house and car, a health-monitoring system, a universal "distress" beacon, a bio-metrically secure electronic payment/banking device, and of course.... a clock all on your wrist. I've already seen people attaching their mobile internet device to armbands. It's just a short evolutionary step away from the ergonomic wrist "holster" (with removeable, launderable, sweat wicking cushioning pads).

I think that people with any timepiece that requires both hands to operate are missing out on the whole innovation of "hands free" timekeeping we perfected in the 20th century. So as the robot-police drag me off to get "renewed", I for one will go kicking and screaming well into the 21st century with a wristwatch on my arm. "Solyent Green is people!"

I've had a tumultuous relationship with wristwatches to say the least. I've owned and still do own many, but I tend to destroy them, literally destroy them. I don't know why I am so particularly hard on watches. I crack crystals, scratch bodies, cause buttons to stick or malfunction, break waterproof seals, lose pins and screws, snap watchbands of every sort, and literally erode plastic watches away until the micro-thin walls collapse. I love watches and have received many really nice ones as gifts, but I have not yet truly found a watch that can survive me (and the abuse that I give it).

Although I don't want to go too far off topic, I should mention, I am exactly the same with sunglasses. When I invest in pricey, cool shades (Vuarnets, Gargoyles, Ray-Bans) I inevitably lose them, crush them by sitting on them, forget them in a restaurant, scratch them by dropping them, or (get this) worry or fret about them so much that I actually don't wear them. I'd leave them in their protective case when I actually need them but am doing some rough activity where they might get lost or damage. How illogical is that? You don't wear your $200 Serengetis, and wear a sufficient, cheapo $10 pair, when you go out to play and need them the most. Isn't the equipment supposed to protect you, or vice versa?I eventually came around to the theory that (unless I get a huge inheritance and start living in stately Wayne Manor) it's just far better and more cost effective to buy decent, practical watches and sunglasses (and forget about the "hot" namebrands).

I require a watch to have a second hand (for medical response reasons), be fairly durable, certainly waterproof, and readable in the dark somehow. That's the mininum, and many watches will meet these criteria. I went through about 20 plastic Timex and Casio watches like this, most lasting less than a year. I had a graveyard of spare parts with which I would try to extend the service life of some of those Timex and Casio watches.

On top of those basic criteria, additional desireable features might be altimeter, thermometer, compass, stopwatch, alarm, and dual time (for convenient switching of time zones). Additionally, easily replaceable batteries is a big plus, a synthetic wrist strap (more on this later), and 24 hour "military" clock are preferred features.

I've tried ALL the various so-called "altimeter" watch brands that have ALL of the above features.... High Gear, Casio, Suunto, Timex, Dakota, LaCrosse... and for the money, I'd say the relatively "cheap" LaCrosse is the best of the lot (best value for decent function). All of those watch brands I mentioned make very similar versions of the altimeter watch, but most are priced in the $200 to $600 range. Well, I picked up a LaCrosse XG-55 for about 50 bucks, on sale, at a local telescope store. At that price, I really don't care how banged up my watch gets or if I left it unattended at the gym or rink. My LaCrosse is pretty beat up, scratched and faded now, but it's still functioning well, now into it's third battery replacement. For the cost of ONE bulky Suunto Wrist Computer with exactly the same functions, I could buy 5 to 10 of these LaCrosses and just toss them away when they're used up.

The synthetic watchband thing is a matter of practicality. Metal bands are heavy and uncomfortable (they pinch, and convect heat). Leather and cloth trap bacteria colonies from skin oils and sweat and eventually stink! that's why I prefer plain ol' cheapo plastic wrist bands which are easily washable.

More recently, I think I finally found a watch that may be durable enough for me. The Titanium High Gear Altis. It has all of those features that I required or desired, plus, it was mainly composed of titanium (the durable, lightweight, heat resistant, corrosion resistant, non-magnetic, hypo-allergenic wonder metal) and it had a very easy to replace battery system (user-changeable). So far it has performed very well though I've scratched up the casing a bit and dropped it a few times. Titanium composition usually means very expensive because it so hard to work with and is usually reserved for high performance appications, like inpenetrable armour, submarines, spacecraft and hyper-sonic jet aircraft. I was able to get this Titanium watch, post-Christmas, for a really great price (about $100).

The watch itself works beautifully. I have to warn you, it is not for everyone. You have to have some tech-savvy, or at least be interested in the scads of information that this watch will throw at you on almost every screen (there are 6 screens with different displays). It comes with a good instruction booklet which is a necessary read if you want to use some of the advanced functions (like logging your skiing data, or predicting weather trends). My favourite instrument on it so far is the digital compass, which I found to be very accurate and practical. It features a great "digital" bezel that rotates in realtime. The thermometer is rendered inaccurate by body heat, but I find that if you take the reading and subract 14 degrees F from it, it gives the local air temperature (compensating for my body heat). I consider the user-changeable battery (easily opened battery compartment) a major improvement for a watch of this type. Yes, this class of watch will tend to burn through batteries pretty fast (less than a year life on the average), so I glad I don't have to go through all the trouble and expense of professional battery changes (with pressure tests to ensure the water resistant seal). The styling for the Titanium High Gear Altis is nice too. It looks "retro" (like an early LED watch), yet "modern" (clean, alien-technology lines and metal composition). It works well with a suit, or my field khakis.

Finally (on my wishlist), I'd like to put in a good word for the Omega Speedmaster Pro model 3573.50, which is one seriously rugged piece of equipment. To me this would be the ultimate watch if price were no object. I would rather have this watch than any Rolex, Breitling, Tag Heuer, Bulova, Longines, or any other model Omega, which are mostly status symbol jewelry. Check out this article about NASA's behind-the-scenes testing for a timepiece for the space programme.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Omega_Speedmaster_Professional

To summarize, NASA engineers wanted to skip the time consuming open competition process for picking a wristwatch durable enough for the rigours of space (shock and g-forces, radiation exposure, extremes of heat hot and cold, pressure/vacuum, humidity and submersion in salt water) so they just went into Houston and bought multiple watches of the 10 most "premium" watch manufacturers in the world. For the next 2 years or so, they were torture tested for all of those criteria that I mentioned above. Well, the Swiss made Omega Speedmaster Pro was the only survivor of the tests. No other watch survived to complete the testing. To me, that's an amazing testament to it's durability. That's how the Omega Speedmaster Pro became the "official" watch of the US space programme through the Apollo missions. But there's more! Independantly, the Soviet space programme conducted a similar trial for watches, and came up with the same final result! To this day, even with all the advances in watch technology in the past 40 years, the astronauts can wear whatever watch they want, but the Omega Speedmaster Pro is still the only timepiece authorized by NASA for EVA (spacewalks outside the shuttle or space station). I'd say that's about as glowing an endorsement for a product as you can get.

In Da Hood

I tend to like things that are multi-purpose and adaptable. I especially like it when an otherwise common object possesses innate properties or composition that make it much more than it appears to be. Such is the case with my Blackhawk OD Green balaclava. A balaclava, for our purposes here, is an article of clothing, a hood or mask that entirely covers the head and neck area aka ski mask, monkey caps, helmet liners. Note the civilian or cultural definition may be quite different. I just think it's a good, very compact (takes up almost no space), versatile headwear option and a handy item to have around, just in case.

First of all the balaclava, true to it's original design during the Crimean War, is insulative in cold weather. It covers and protects the head, neck, and ears from frostbite and wind chill in freezing conditions. When I'm camping outdoors on a chilly night, I like to wear my balaclava when I'm sleeping as a head insulator and a breath pre-warmer. There is some apocryphal evidence among athletes and asthma sufferers that this pre-warming, pre-moisturizing and re-breathing actually helps asthma symptoms (which can be triggered by cold, dry air). I just know it is a great base layer next to the skin in deep cold. The single large eye opening hole allows convenient sunglass or goggle wear, or if stretched a bit, a protective mask or SCBA. The single large opening also looks a bit less threatening as "ski masks" go. Also, the hole is actually large enough to pass the entire head through. By pulling on the top half of the balaclava, you can pull the head through and the balaclava just covers the lower half of your face/mouth, or all the way down, it becomes a neck gaiter. For more common everyday use, the balaclava can simply be rolled up halfway to make a decent "watchcap" or beanie, just preventing heat loss out the top of your head. It's indistinguishable from any other type of dedicated watchcap commonly worn these days around town.

The balaclava that I use is made of Nomex Aramid fibres which keeps the item thin and non-bulky. It is the same type of hood used by firefighters, race car drivers, tactical teams, and fighter pilots due to it's resistance to fire and flash flame. Unlike natural materials like cotton, it won't burn, and unlike synthetics, it won't melt (worsening the severity of burns). It sounds a bit paranoid I know, but if you are a frequent airline travel you might be interested in having this little bit of safety equipment (to help you escape from a plane with the hair and skin on your head intact). I specifically choose the "extended length" version to get a bit more neck protection.

The third use is actually as camofluage since it is OD green in colour and concealment as it is actually a mask that entirely covers the face and makes you both harder to see and anonymous. Again, I am not suggesting any nefarious purpose, but I merely note it here as another value-added "feature" of this piece of apparel.

There are of course all the other myriad and imaginative things that you can do with a knit cloth cap that happens to be fire-proof, but I won't waste time starting another long redundant list.

Pen Is Mightier Than iPhone

Here's a situation we can all relate with... you're mobbed by adoring fans and they want your autograph. Don't ya just hate it when you are using someone's mostly upright back as a writing surface and the ink in the ballpoint pen quits on you? Impatient fans are crowded around you as you shake the pen desperately, while papparazzi are taking snaps of your triceps..... well, with a genuine Fisher Space Pen that will never happen again.

You might be wondering what a pen has to do with survival or disaster preparedness, and honestly, I am not too confidently sure either... LOL. But I do know of several true anecdotes where it has saved a life as a self-defense weapon (stabbing), as a medical airway adjunct (cricothyrotomy), and in the space programme (helping Apollo astronauts to return home). And I know that in my daily life, I seem to need my pen at least 2 or 3 times per day, and even in this age of electronics I find myself jotting down "old school" paper notes more often than not because it's still the quickest, most reliable system around. It may be something as simple as jotting down a phone number for the US Embassy (when you have only 1 phone call), Lat and Long coordinate (as your boat sinks), radio frequency (as you need help landing a plane), or PIN code to arm/disarm something.

I've been a longtime user and devoted fan of the Fisher Space Pen since the 1970s when my Dad brought home the original version that "the astronauts took to the moon". I've used many pens through the years with fancier casings, more exotic features, better ergonomic grips, with easier feeding inks and gels, but I have yet to encounter a flat out better pen (ink delivery system) than the Fisher Space Pen.

For those that don't know, Fisher pens use a pressurized ink cartridge. Inert nitrogen gas pushes the ink toward the ballpoint, rather than gravity. This permits the pen to function in any orientation (like upside down), in the absence of gravity (like in space), or even underwater. This may seem like an odd feature for non-astronauts, but imagine using a pen writing against a wall... or perhaps reclining supine in a chair doing a crossword. Additionally, the proprietary ink formula remains viscous in extreme temperatures, is more "permanent" than most ballpoint pen inks, and seems to last much longer than a normal pen (without drying out). The special ink formulation allows you to write on glossy photographs, waxy paper, or even oily surfaces. I think the Fisher literature reads "2 1/2 miles of ink".

I own about a dozen Fisher Space Pens of various designs, and all of them are excellent in their own way (whether it be for compactness, ergonomics, or variety of features), but the Telescoping Space Pen is my current favourite. It combines the excellent compactness of the 'Bullet' model with the comfortable ergonomics of any of their full size pens and it uses this aesthetically pleasing yet practical lightweight brushed aluminum casing. The heart of the system is still the standard Fisher pressurized ink cartridge, a marvel of engineering. The Telescoping Pen compacts to a nice, smooth (non-snagging) mini-pen that can easily fit in a jeans pocket or through the spiral loops of a small notepad. The casing serves as it's own cap when?closed/retracted. The best part of it's design however is that in order to deploy the pen, the end of the case must be PULLED rather than pushed (like the usual retracting ballpoint). This design means that it is nearly impossible for it to accidentally deploy (and stain clothes, poke holes, etc). Furthermore, when you pull the case, it extends the length of the pen so that it perfectly fits the hand for comfortable, ergonomic writing. I just love this design. I "holster" mine in an elastic loop on my cell phone pouch?and when I need a pen, with one hand I just grab the end of the casing and pull (this simultaneously extends the pen and deploys the ballpoint tip as it clears the elastic loop and I'm instantly ready to write). There is no cap to worry about or lose.

Some mods: I glued on a metal clip to the body so that it more securely stays put in my elastic "holster". Just to make it a bit more comfortable when writing, I added a nubby rubber grip tube from another pen to my Telescoping Fisher, making it even more ergonomic. From the Fisher catalog, I ordered a Black Fine Point ink cartridge also, which allows me to write very, very small when I need to. The company offers a variety of fun and interesting ink cartridge refills to suit your personality, including gold ink and silver ink! From another source I bought a notebook with waterproof paper, so I am all set if I need to write a note in a rainstorm.

The Fisher Telescoping Pen retails for about $35 to $40 if you shop around and is IMO worth every penny. I cannot really think of any shortcomings for this pen, except that it is desireable and people will try to nick it from you.... LOL. I mean people will casually wander off with it after "borrowing" it.

The pen just works well, it's made of high tech materials, and it even looks good! I have yet to encounter any problems with it through 8 years of use.

Throwin' Down the Gauntlet

I admit it. I have soft, supple, nimble "city hands" and sensitive finger tips. I like them this way, and I believe my world has been much enriched by it. I don't mind getting my hands dirty, roughing them up or putting them to hard blister-forming use, but I always just wondered, why?? when there is a simple alternative. Gloves. Gloves that will serve as a barrier between me and dirty, greasy, or contaminated substances, gloves that will protect my hand from abrasions, cuts, slivers, and callouses, and gloves that will improve my grip and/or improve my performance at certain tasks even. I have chronically dry skin on my hands, and gloves seem to help me keep?them moistened and moisturized. They even provide sun-protection for my hands, serve as a handy sweat mop, and obviates the need for messy hand camofluage.

The choice to wear hand protection just seems a no brainer. So when I'm out in the field, when I'm doing manual labor, construction, gardening, or picking up or cleaning anything "yucky", you will always see a pair of gloves of some kind on me. In the Army, it became almost a "style" thing, my trademark, as I was the guy that always wore gloves in the field, summer or winter, day or night, short sleeve or long.

My preferred gloves have long been the gauntlet-length Nomex flight gloves (sage/grey, or black). They were designed for pilots who required manual dexterity and flame resistance to operate their aircraft with gloves on. They fit close and are slightly elastic, giving me good manual dexterity for operating tactical gear, making hand/arm signals, operating electronic equipment (buttons, switches, keyboards). My primary pair are also woven with Kevlar and are slash resistant. These are the pair that I airline travel with, just in case I need to regulate on a knife-wielding terrorist.

The Kevlar/Nomex combo was not cheap as I recall but well worth it for the extra reassurance of having "slash proof" hands.

Probably by force of habit now, I prefer the extra coverage of the gauntlet length, both for warmth/protection and more practically as a handy sweat mop. When I don't need the extra length, I simply fold it back or roll it up. My Kevlar gauntlets are made by Hatch, a well known company in police gloves (with high dexterity and sensitivity for searches), and I believe I originally purchased them from Gall's (but possibly U.S. Cavalry) by mail order. Through repeated use and washings through the years, they've faded from black to almost grey but they are still in excellent condition despite lots of rough use.

For my motorcycle, I possess a pair of the top of the line "ultimate" CHP winter gauntlet that my dear parents bought for me way back in the day. I used to suffer when riding in the winter, with cold, freezing hands, but these over-engineered gauntlets keep me toasty warm up to my forearms. During warm weather though, I tend to prefer unlined "shorty" leather gloves which I own maybe 10 pair of.

I also have a pair of nice custom-made soft deerskin gauntlets that I had made ostensibly for riding, but perfect for various historical costumes. It's great how versatile and passably authentic the timeless gauntlet style is for a lot of time periods and even sci-fi. I use them for archery now (serving as both an archery glove and arm guard).

For other specific activities, I have several specialty gloves. Like a pair of Reactor II padded-knuckle, suede-palm rappelling gloves that I use at the range and for rappelling, and Goretex and Polartec insulated gauntlets for snowblading, and neoprene diving gloves.

Perhaps ironically, about the only place that I don't like to wear gloves is at the ice rink. Gloves tend to make me overheat.

Ok, MacGyver - Survival 101 (the brain)

MacGyver is one of several nicknames that I have been called through my life, so I eventually had to watch the show to familiarize myself with the character. It's about an ex-SF operator who goes on secret missions for the government and he resolves problems by improvising devices out of common objects around him. It's an interesting concept, but MacGyver eschews the use of firearms, which is fine in principle. However, I think he unnecessarily disadvantages/endangers himself and makes things many times more complicated and difficult for himself when a simple, effective solution is often available i.e. pick up a defensive weapon.

The real idea behind being MacGyver-like is to be a thinking person and using applied science to resolve situations. I just liked things like physics and mechanical engineering growing up, and I actually was fascinated by and paid attention during Chemistry class (both high school and college). And tinkering with basic electronics as a kid, you learn how things work. I wanted to learn about the physical properties of the world around me and how they interacted with each other. I considered it vital information.

I think a big part of being MacGyver-like is not just seeing an object for what it appears to be... but knowing an object for what it is and envisioning what it could be with modification or in combination with other things. I am reminded of that scene in Apollo 13 in which the scientists and engineers are given a finite pile of materials and told to write a procedure for fabricating a CO2 scrubber from scratch. I love puzzles like that! Like for example, a paperclip. Some people might just see a clip to hold papers together, and don't go much beyond that. What I see is a 3 to 4 inch length of 30 gauge low carbon steel wire with a tensile strength of about 40 lbs (maybe 25 under shock load) and a decent electrical conductor with about 40 ohms of resistance. It can be magnetized. It can fasten other objects together. It can pierce other objects. It can support a decent amount of weight. I see an innocuous piece of metal that will pass through a metal detector without a second glance, yet it could sabotage a computer, disable an engine, maim a person (as a weapon), pick a lock (esp simple ones like handcuffs), short an electrical circuit from any outlet or lighting fixture, and burn a hole through plastic or ignite wood. Using my imagination I can go on and on.

There are certain very general items I continue to find very useful on repeated occasions. Things like duct tape, dental floss, cable ties, hose clamps, plastic bags of all sizes, 550 paracord, medical tape, aluminum foil, 20 gauge wire/paperclip, chewing gum, etc. are all common objects that I find myself continually "riffing on" for my inventions and fabrications. These along with my pocket tools allow me to make almost everything that I need. Some of them are self-explanatory. Some, like duct tape, are "famous" for the their versatility and utility, and whole books have been written about duct tapes "legendary" uses. Waxed dental floss happens to be very strong string and is useful for everything from just attaching things so they don't get lost ("dummy cords") to use as thread for sewing and sutures. Both cable ties and hose clamps are versatile and convenient fasteners and pivot points. Plastic bags have thousands of uses. Not only do they organize stuff without taking up much space, they can hold messy items and liquids (like hold water), or conversely, keep items dry, they can hold air (for flotation), they can be an occlusive dressing (for tension pneumo-thorax), they can be improvised into weapons and booby traps in many ways, they can make articles of waterproof clothing, and they can be used as solar or condensate distllieries. Paracord is another endlessly useful item like duct tape. Remember, 550 stands for 550 lbs test... per strand. I can write a book just on the uses of Parachute cord. Any type of tape is good, but suffice it to say that cloth medical tape is also another particularly useful type. Aluminum foil is a wonderous material. Basically it is very portable, very malleable, sheet metal that retains all the properties of Aluminum with myriad uses. With some foil I can make a small (cooking) campfire on a lifeboat, in a vehicle, or in a snow shelter. I can make a complete set of cookware, including a dutch oven. It helps insulate (cold or hot). I can "fireproof" otherwise flammable objects or materials. It's great for making funnels, conduit, pipes, and chutes for channeling liquids and other loose materials. Almost anything can be "shaped" out of aluminum foil with imagination, including real and "fake" weapons.... LOL. Gum is a good flexible, temporary bonding agent.

In a survival situation, part of the "stop and think" is to take an accounting of your assets (things that will benefit you). Depending on the situation, sometimes a whole lot of what you need to survive is right in front of you, like in the wreckage of your plane, car, or boat. If safe, the wreckage might be the best shelter available. If nothing else, the remains of the vehicle itself is a "marker" for rescuers to look for. Think! Seat upholstery is cloth. The poly-foam insulation under it is warm and insulative. Seatbelts are tough nylon straps. Tires can burn and produce lots of smoke. Electrical wiring is useful for making things. Mirrors are excellent signalling devices. Pieces of metal, tire irons, airplane parts can be tools, weapons, and components of other things. Ropes, sails, pumps, residual fuel are all useful items. Don't forget the battery as a potential power source.

When counting your assets, don't forget the "human factor". It's surprising how even in a small group of humans how many different useful skills, qualifications, backgrounds, or useful experiences emerge if you ask. Pilots, medical knowledge, carpentry, engineering skill, hunters/outdoors people, cooks, language ability, military specialties, ex-Scouts, etc. you never know what you may find that can be helpful. Remember humans tend to survive better in small synergistic groups.

Though I have zero criminal background (or tendencies), oddly, I am often the person that my friends call when they have some difficult or para-legal problem or situation. Like, 6 times now in my adult lifetime, I've been asked to break into homes (the resident's). I don't know why, but people just think I have that sort of knowledge. (I did).

Though I respect that they have a thankless job to do, I scoff at TSA security checks for their officiousness, inefficiency, inconsistency, ineffectiveness, and wasted effort and cost. To stop ALL potential weapons from getting on board a plane, you'd practically have to ask all passengers to travel naked. Instead, the trend now is toward encouraging people NOT to check in their baggage (by charging for checked baggage). Would it surprise you to know that hundreds of potential weapons, incendiary and even explosive devices routinely get through security checks without a second glance? Use your imagination. What objects in your purse, bag, pockets, on your person, or in your carry-on luggage have dangerous hardness or mass, are pointy, able to be accelerated, have batteries or capacitors, flammable or reactive compounds? Last time I boarded a plane, I counted, on my person, 25 potential weapons that were just common objects all in plain sight.

Question:
What do Nylon stockings or synthetic socks, underwire or padded bras, belts with simple metal buckles, shirts with collars, silk scarves, shoes or boots with laces, cable luggage locks, coins (rolled or loose in a Casino cup), a plastic (acrylic) comb, disposable Bic lighter, aerosol hairspray, 10 keys and a key fob on a keyring, Listerine breath strips, a book of paper matches, mini nail clipper with file, a nylon strap from a bag or belt, a large paperclip, a pen with a metal body, a pen with a plastic body (nylon or acrylic), "Allure" perfume by Chanel, Time magazine (or any high clay weekly), aluminum Sigg water bottle (empty), "I (heart) N.Y." coffee mug, conch shell from Florida, bottle of Glen Fidditch Scotch whiskey, glass ashtray from "Fisherman's Wharf", sample rock collection from Grand Canyon, Arizona, bottle of Louisiana hot sauce from Mardi Gras, duct tape, metal Swingline stapler, powdered non-dairy creamer packets, hot pepper packets from Round Table Pizza, 6" wooden dowel (hardwood), nuts/bolts, glass marbles, packet of party poppers, small mister/sprayer bottle (empty), steel wool, cell phone, disposable camera with flash, Nikon with flash unit, Eton FR-150 AM/FM radio with solar/dynamo charger, portable CD player, travel alarm clock, 9V battery, and laptops with Ni-Cad battery packs (basically any electronic device with a rechargeable battery and/or a capacitor) have in common??

Answer:
They are all weapons or components of improvised weapons that regularly get past TSA checkpoints.

And who paid attention during chemistry class?? Aluminum (powdered), Ammonia (cleaning agent), Chlorine (disinfectant wipes), Ethanol (any booze over 80 proof), Hydrogen Peroxide, Iron oxide (powdered, base ingredient of aluminothermic reaction), Magnesium (powdered), Mercury (fulminate), Naptha (mothballs), Parafin wax, Potassium Permanganate, Phosporous (red or white from matchheads), Saltpeter (KNO3), and Sulfur are all potentially dangerous compounds that can routinely pass checkpoints if they are in their more "innocuous" forms.

So what, if any, new security measures are preventing another 9/11 type attack from happening? The only effective measure, really, is the reinforced cockpit door combined with our increased knowledge/awareness and the willingness of passengers to get involved. A small, determined group working in coordination could still (easily) smuggle weapons and take over the passenger compartment of a plane, but what happens after that would be quite different I think if another 9/11 type attack were attempted. A great disadvantage of these militant Islamic extremists possess is that they have consistently shown an aversion to actually facing someone who will fight back (they prefer defenseless, docile targets). Sorry, I didn't intend to go off on this tangent, and perhaps I will re-visit this topic of "improvised weapons" again. One important aspect of weapons I didn't cover is improvised "defense", which is important.

Finally, you'll hear me mention this over and over, but in addition to humans, don't forget the animal element. Dogs, especially dogs, can really enhance your survival chances. For very little in return, dogs will scout and hunt for you, they provide ample early warning with senses many times better than humans, they provide warmth, they provide morale and companionship, they will literally work themselves to death running/working/pulling for you, and they are a loyal and tireless defender if you are attacked. They will die for you.